If you wish to do the job right, get a borescope so you can look down the barrel and in fact see what's going on. When upon a time, this involved spending substantial money. Now there are most likely half a lots out there that are eminently inexpensive. Without a borescope, you're working blind.
Second, you have to remove copper fouling. Here is a list of what I use. J Dewey nylon-coated cleansing rods.
Eliminate the brush, hose it down once again, and put it aside to dry. Wipe off the cleaning rod with a paper towel. Take your spot rod, and put three solvent spots up the bore. The last one ought to come out nearly white. When it does, follow with a dry spot.
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(Do not get J-B or oil or anything else on the lens of your scope. If you see no copper, or just a faint wash of copper here and there, you're done.
If you don't have a borescope, run a solvent repair the bore and let it sit, muzzle a little down, for a number of hours. Run another solvent patch through, and if it comes out clean, you're done, however if it has green or blue spots, back to the J-B.
Now, some basic notes. Some barrels copper-foul much worse than others. As a guideline, the more you invest in a barrel the smoother it will be and the less it will nasty. Every barrel fouls to one degree or another. Do break-in procedures work? I doubt it. I've had one or 2 cases where a barrel suddenly started to group as I reached completion of the procedure, however I have actually had much more break-ins that made no difference at all.
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They work, in some cases, but if you forget and leave the stuff in your bore for more than 15 minutes, they will pit your bore however good, and since I'm at the age where I forget stuff, I hesitate to take the chance. Likewise, they're hell on stock finishes. With a bolt-action, go simple on the Break-Free.
Take a hint from the military, whose lives depend on their firearms going bang. They want them spotless. And spotless is a great way to go.
The steps to appropriately clean your rifle depend on whether you are doing a field removing or total disassembly. Due to the variety of rifles, complete disassembly of the gun aren't within the scope of this short article.
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, and remove any loose particles that might be found within the action, bolt, receiver, frame and chamber.
One common misconception is that more is much better when it comes to lubrication of your gun. You want to properly lubricate where required, but too much can lead to extreme residues, which can result in breakdowns and managing concerns (slippery). Lubing cloths are an exceptional tool since they help manage the quantity of oil/lubrication being used in any offered area of your weapon.
The treatment is easy. Soak a couple spots in this solvent and run them down the barrel. (Keep in mind, keep your barrel clamped or pointed down to prevent any solvent collecting near the actionsee Action 1.) Enable it to sit, and remember that eliminating copper can take a while.
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If the patch comes out stained blue, you still have copper in the barrel. Simply let it sit once again, and repeat. If the patch comes out stained blue, you still have copper in the barrel. Simply let it sit again and repeat. Bill Buckley Keep In Mind: There's a lot of speak about how these copper solvents can harm your bore.
What you don't desire is to let any ammonia solvent dry in there. Once you're pleased that the copper is gone, run a couple of dry patches down the bore, followed by a couple of spots that have been damp with a regular cleansing solvent. Run three or 4 dry patches down the bore to get rid of any remaining solvent.